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For all its trendiness, chef Walter Manzke and restaurateur Bill Chait's Petty Cash in the Fairfax district has a lot of thoughtful underpinnings, and that thoughtfulness raises it above any other fancy taco joint I can think of. So yes, there's sea urchin in the guacamole, which also comes with a cone of chicharrones, which arrives at the table still crackling. The uni and avocado have an odd textural effect on one another, like rubbing velvet against itself, but the lush, briny aftertaste of the urchin is somewhat miraculous. Tacos cost as much as $6.50. How you feel about that will depend very much on how coddled you want your tacos to be, because these suckers are made with a ton of care. —Besha Rodell

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Price: $$

Parking: Street

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