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The Thai Town restaurant Pa-Ord Noodle is a shinier-than-usual mini-mall dive with a reputation for great boat-noodle soup. Submerged in a deep, slightly tart broth tinted chocolate-brown with its thickener of ground pork blood, the noodles in question are garnished with scallions and skinny strips of tripe and slivers of beef -- and also with slablets of liver if your tastes run that way. Additionally, you’ll find crunchy bits of pork rind, crumbled right out of the bag into the soup. It’s a nourishing dish, complex and filling, so that a small, $3.50 bowl will almost certainly be enough. Proprietor Lawan Bhanduram — the place takes its name from her Thai nickname, Ord — rarely finds herself with an empty seat.

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