Night + Market Song | Silver Lake | Thai | Restaurant
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At Night + Market Song in Silver Lake, chef Kris Yenbamroong branches out, serving some of the same Thai dishes that gave him renown at Night + Market in West Hollywood but also throwing in food that more closely resembles what you might crave three too many beers in. The larb, the spicy rice salads, the stinky relish made with shrimp paste and bitter eggplant, and the beef tendon Penang curry are all as bracing and wonderful as they are at the other location. For the most part, this is food cooked with extreme thought and care, the flavors built carefully and slowly, and almost every dish you get here will have one long, low bright note: the gift of slow-roasted ginger, or chilies seared before mashing, or the addition of pork fat to a catfish "tamale," giving it depth and savor. This food is not nonchalant in any way. —Besha Rodell

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Price: $$$

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