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At n/naka in Palms, chef Niki Nakayama presents a modern interpretation of kaiseki, the Japanese formal, multicourse style of dining that emphasizes seasonality. And so a meal unfolds, in quiet stanzas: A blue shrimp, split open and grilled to its buoyant, juicy ideal and coated with yuzu cream; a modern interpretation of a sashimi course involving otoro, scallions and a tiny sliver of mildly sweet butter flavored with uni; a plate of lovingly arranged sashimi offerings, including tai (sea bream), kanpachi and one perfect Kumamoto oyster with ponzu and lemon. —Besha Rodell

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