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The chef at MessHall is Keith Silverton, and his menu plays with ideas of classic American fare. Some of it reaches back to that notion of nostalgia for the institutional food of childhood, some of it hews closer to the outdoorsy nature of camping, and some of it takes on a Southern drawl. And then there are things that simply reflect the sensibilities of present-day Los Feliz, like baby beets with farro and grapefruit, or the very good cocktails with names like "the Hallucinogenic Whimsies of Banana Man." Basic American dinners done right make up a lot of the entrees, like rich, tender, beef short ribs served with a simple, silken mashed potato tinged with celery root and even simpler al dente Brussels sprouts. The "hog chop," juicy and flavorful, comes with grits and mustard greens, both hearty and well prepared. There's nothing that exciting here, just good ingredients treated with care.

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