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With certain dishes, Chef CJ Jacobson manages quite a trick, presenting the aesthetic of absurdly cerebral Nordic cuisine to neighborhood diners at his new Studio City restaurant Girasol, which means "sunflower" in Spanish. So the gorgeous "beets and berries" appetizer consists of florets of leaves and herbs placed artfully in a base of whipped goat cheese along with beets and various berries. It looks like a masterpiece, yet it's a beet-and–goat cheese salad, albeit an intensely aromatic and enjoyable version. Hamachi with citrus also brings the naturalist beauty. It arrives in a semicircle on the plate, the raw, cubed fish mingling with mandarin, macadamia nuts, finger lime and verbena. Despite all that citrus — preserved grapefruit makes an appearance as well — the fish tastes bare and fresh, almost unadorned in its simplicity. —Besha Rodell

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: All Major Credit Cards

Parking: Street, Valet

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