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There are indulgent comfort plates, like the Reuben's Gluttony with bone marrow and "Yorkie" pudding, or the Flash-Grilled Steak Tartare topped with a smoked egg yolk. And while excellent options, most of these meaty dishes aren't the most interesting ones on the menu, even for the particularly carnivorous. No, the interest lies principally in the vegetable plates, which channels the ethos of seasonability into bar food fare.

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