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Beyond the roasted chicken that earned the chain its reputation, El Pollo Inka?s menu is filled with the seafood dishes typical of Lima?s industrial port suburb, Callao: hotly spiced ceviche; crisply fried catfish fillets garnished with a sort of Peruvian pico de gallo; and noodles tossed with various tentacles. The fish soup parihuela is close to the classic version, dark and pepper-hot as a superior Louisiana gumbo.

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Reservations: Accepted

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