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DeSano was brought to L.A. by Scott DeSano, who started in Nashville in 2012. East Hollywood is his third location. It's not like the best pizza in Italy. It's more like the quick-and-dirty pizza you might get on the street in Italy — which is still pretty great by L.A. standards. To sit in the large back room at long wooden tables and have your pizza served on sheet pans, to get mounds of fresh garlic and chili flake from the serve-yourself condiment station, to procure your own tap water from a drinking fountain at the back of the room, should all feel like a blast. Grab two scoops of the very good gelato on the way out (made by Alessandro Fontana) or, even better, a fat, filled-to-order cannoli that's one of the best in town. —Besha Rodell

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