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On a block containing more Thai restaurants per square foot than anywhere this side of Bangkok, a Thai restaurant needs a kind of gimmick, and you will not be surprised to hear that the calling card at Crispy Pork Gang is, in fact, crispy pork -- Scrabble tiles of crispy, skin-on pork blown out to a light, gooey crunch, and tossed with papaya salad, laid into soup, spooned over rice, stir-fried with thousand-year eggs or mint leaves or curry, or, perhaps most satisfactorily, sauteed with slippery morning glory stalks or green, crunchy stumps of Chinese broccoli. There is an adequately crunchy version of the crispy rice salad nam kao tod, grilled chicken and pork (justifying the "& Grill'' part of the restaurant's name), and a fairly wan excuse for roti, either slicked with coconut milk or served with green curry, but no matter. Do you think they'd toss crispy pork in with the mango and sticky rice?

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