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Previously Birreria Jalisco, the newly renamed Birreria De Don Boni in Boyle Heights specializes in richly spiced goat, as you might guess from both monikers. The meat is lean, rich in flavor, but hardly spicy hot. Bones are easily avoided, while the broth begs to be soaked up by the layers of steamy tortillas on the side. The flavor and speedy delivery suggests that the goat has been stewing for hours, meat softening and soaking in spices, just waiting for you to arrive. Add chopped onion, a squeeze of lime, and you're good to goat. Dessert, somewhat surprisingly, consists of four non-goat options: arroz con leche, flan, and jericalla, which tastes like flan's refrigerated, cinnamony cousin, a blue-collar crème brulée. Six flavors of raspados are also available for slurping.

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