Allumette | Silver Lake | Contemporary, New American, Small Plates | Restaurant
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Much of young chef Miles Thompson's food astonishes. In the crudo section, a shimaji dish with miso, blood orange and kiwi is bright and standard if you like fruit with your fish, but the live scallop tartar knocked me on my ass. Served with strawberries, black truffle and elderflower vinaigrette, it was so luminous and tart that it was like a fruit-and-seafood version of Sweet Tarts. Szechuan pork dumplings, delicate and savory, sit in a black vinegar sauce with tarragon and come topped with fat salmon roe. Cavatelli with uni ragu and fromage noir is delicate and lovely, English peas and braised mushrooms giving it lightness and the distinct flavor of spring. It's a dish you might come across at one of the best restaurants in the world — making it frankly confounding in this average brown room with a pretty cocktail bar on a slightly sleazy strip in Echo Park. —Besha Rodell

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Price: $$$

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