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At Acabar in Hollywood, chef Octavio Becerra is presenting an ode to the spice trail, and the flow of flavor and inspiration that traveled that route from the Middle East to Asia to Europe and back again, loosely organized around cuisines that have been touched by France in some way. So there is halibut ceviche with mango, uni, aji amarillo and mango, sharing the menu with Turkish cured salmon with caraway potato latke and shaved Persian cucumber. There's satay, curry, bouillabaisse, steamed buns and arancini. In recent weeks, Becerra added a ceviche and raw bar to a corner of the foyer, and you can have a tasting menu made entirely of raw fish and shellfish. Everything at Acabar fits into a theme, but it's a very loose theme. —Besha Rodell

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Price: $$
Payment Type: All Major Credit Cards

Parking: Street

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