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Cuisine(s):
Asian, Thai
Hours: Mon., 5-10:30 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Price:
$$
Serving:
Lunch, Dinner
Alcohol:
Beer/Wine
Reservations:
Not Necessary
Parking:
Lot Available
Payment Types: MasterCard, Visa, American Express
Features:
Takeout
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Jitlada Thai Restaurant
5233-1/2 Sunset Blvd.
L.A., CA 90027
The restaurant in its present incarnation is one of the newest in Thaitown, and the glossy-magazine clippings on its walls are still fresh. Still, it is already hard to believe there was a time before Suthiporn Sungkamee and his sister Jazz Singsanong were fixtures on the Hollywood Thai restaurant scene. The Southern Thai specialties we have quickly learned to take for granted the Songkhla-style rice salad; the fried sea bass with homegrown turmeric; and the infamous endorphin bomb
kua kling Phat Tha Lung, a beef curry in its purest form is spicy enough to strip the bark off a log were abstractions Angelenos could only read about in books. The printed menu is still a roster of the usual Thai banalities, but the typed insert of Southern specialties originally translated by a visiting Chicago blogger is basically a list of dishes you'll find in few other places: delicious, foul-smelling yellow curries of fermented bamboo shoots; delicate lemon curries; curries of fried softshell crabs and the notorious sataw bean; wild tea leaves cooked down like creamed spinach with bits of gluey-skinned catfish; beef simmered with pickled buds of Asian cinnamon. There are accessible dishes, too, like grilled beef with green papaya salad, steamed mussels with lemongrass and chile, a tropical coco-mango salad and shrimp fried with basil it's not all fish kidneys and dried mudfish. When you need to show visitors the diversity and wonder still possible in Los Angeles restaurants in 2008, Jitlada is Exhibit A.
Difficult lot parking. See full review . - Jonathan Gold
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