Vespertine is as ridiculous and divisive and ambitious as a restaurant can be. A meal here, at minimum, costs well over $300 per person. Chef Jordan Kahn has dreamt up for Vespertine an extraterrestrial mythology, a fictitious framework that makes eating here as much performance art as it is dinner. There's a soundtrack that follows you throughout the evening, which sounds less like music and more like the universe shifting its astral gears. There are aspects of the meal that are absolutely meant to unnerve you rather than delight you. But there is some very real delight to be had.
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