The Ponte

8265 W. Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323-746-5130
The Ponte +

Anne Fishbein Scott Conant's famous pasta al pomodoro

Details

  • Sun.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 6-11:30 p.m.: brunch: Sat.-Sun., 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
Nothing is being reinvented at the Ponte, in the former Terrine space — there's a sense chef Scott Conant swept in, installed a menu of his standbys, and left it mostly in the hands of a capable kitchen crew and an executive chef, Freddy Vargas, who knows those standbys incredibly well. I'm not complaining; these are pretty good standbys. Of course, there's the spaghetti pomodoro, the dish for which Conant is most famous. It's a thing of simple beauty, a swirling pile of al dente noodles and bright red sauce. And there's the creamy bowl of polenta topped with seasonal mushrooms, bacon and truffles. This food is decadent and elegant and very well executed. Most things are just as you would imagine they should be, and done exactly right. A pizza that combines the unapologetic stank of anchovies with the sweet sting of pickled Fresno chilies and the springtime freshness of squash blossoms is good — not the best in the city, certainly, but more than passable — but this pizza, in particular, is one of the great combinations of all time.

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