Our Critics' Picks


The Church Key

8730 Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90069
Critics' Pick
The Church Key +

Photo: Anne Fishbein Ososkys potato pierogies at the Church Key.


  • Mon-Sat 5:30 p.m. - 2 a.m.
  • Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Street Parking, Valet Parking
The Church Key in West Hollywood bills itself as an "American dim sum" restaurant, with Steven Fretz in the kitchen. Falafel croquettes and pig ear Cheetos make the rounds on dim sum carts, and if you take up the offering, the card on your table is stamped to tally what you've eaten. Still, the wee plate of coconut-crusted shrimp or the hamachi crudo from the cart can't hold a candle to the tuna tartare from the kitchen with perkily spiced papadams and dollops of Greek yogurt and fruity bursts of pomegranate seeds. Pierogi come crisp on the outside with creamy centers, served with apple butter and aged Gouda. It's high-end drunk food, which is absolutely appropriate under the circumstances of Church Key's boozy frozen pops, stellar cocktail list and amazing brioche doughnuts. -- Besha Rodell

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