Tasty Noodle House

827 W. Las Tunas Ave.
San Gabriel, CA 91776
626-284-8898
Tasty Noodle House +

Photo: Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Takeout
Tasty Noodle House is the prototypical Asian restaurant stuck in a corner of the prototypical San Gabriel mall, a few glass-topped tables, a couple of flat screens tuned to the soaps, a half-dozen pretty food photographs posted in the picture window outside. But the food here is anything but ordinary. A stew of riblets, vegetables and transparent noodles brought out on a tabletop burner looked almost unbearably healthy, like something you might see on a chipper midmorning cooking show. Dumplings stuffed with pork, shrimp and sea cucumber were almost painfully delicate; a cold dish of slivered cucumber with pork and vinegar showed a Michelin-starred chef's attention to detail. A casserole of that pickled napa with pork belly and frozen tofu turned out to be a greaseless Chinese equivalent of choucroute, deep and satisfying but not at all heavy; a plate of sea snail — conch — with jellyfish and fungus was about as good as stir-fries get, slightly smoky from the wok, lightly garlicky, cooked with the benefit of oil and soy sauce but barely touched by their presence. Hot and sour soup is magnificent — it turns out that a touch of braised sea cucumber is what the soup has been lacking all this time — and the fresh oyster soup is even better.

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