Tacos Tumbras A Tomas

317 S. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90013-1222
213-620-0477
Critics' Pick
Tacos Tumbras A Tomas +

Photo: Todd Porter

Today, customers clog the aisle at Tacos Tumbras, as many as 1,000 a day, Martinez estimates. If you look beyond the dishes of meats, rice and beans displayed in the counter, you can see him on the line like any taquero, moving at top speed as he assembles orders. Tacos Tumbras built its success on the famous fried pork dish of Michoacán, carnitas. From outside, you can't see the enormous pot in which the meat is cooked, a two-handled, steel vat that copies the copper cazos used in Mexico. There, the cazos are hand-hammered into shape in Santa Clara del Cobre, Michoacán's copper town. Frying the meat in such a cazo gives it a different taste, Martinez says, one unknown to his customers — the Health Department here won't let restaurants use such pots.

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