Spring

257 S. Spring St., downtown
Los Angeles, California 90012
213-372-5189
Critics' Pick
Spring +

Photo by Anne Fishbein Escargots Provençal at Spring

Details

  • Lunch: Tue.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner: Tue.-Fri., 6-10 p.m.; Sat., 5:30-10 p.m.
It would be wrong to say the place feels old-fashioned, as that might indicate stuffiness and overly rich sauces, and Spring is anything but stuffy. But it does call to mind the exciting restaurant openings of New York City circa 2003, when food was moving in a more casual direction but still required civility and elegance to be taken seriously. There's a dish of composed fresh vegetables, each cooked to its perfect texture and arranged on the plate as if every sugar snap and tiny round of baby zucchini were a jewel in a elaborately colorful brooch. An appetizer of escargot Provençal is almost a warm salad, made up of delicately cooked tomato, fennel and persillade, with wild Burgundy snails imbued with just enough garlic placed atop the vegetables. It's a gorgeous dish, in conception and execution. Spring delivers beautiful food in a beautiful setting, with an underpinning of technique that's uncommon these days. Read our full review."

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