Sotto

9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Pico-Robertson, CA 90035
310-277-0210
Critics' Pick
Sotto +

Anne Fishbein Sotto's ciccioli (pork terrine, fennel, Taggiasca olives, orange)

Details

  • Sun.-Thu., 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.
  • $$$
  • Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Patio/Sidewalk Dining
  • No Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
Sotto is one of those restaurants that I fear does not get the ongoing credit it deserves. And it deserves a whole lot of credit. Much was made of the Stefano Ferrara pizza oven when Sotto opened, and Sotto still turns out some of the best pizza in the city. That's no small feat — but there's much to laud in chef Steve Samson's nonpizza, hyper-regional Southern Italian cooking as well. He's quietly executing an exceedingly thoughtful range of vegetable antipasti, focusing less on unexpected flavors and more on the cooking method that best suits each individual ingredient, be it a marinated trumpet mushroom or a delicata squash. On the meaty opposite of the spectrum, a warm pork terrine pulls no punches in its loose, fatty funk. It's topped with a bracing citrus and fennel salad, which contrasts starkly with the terrine — you get lush fat and also opposing bright, palate-cleansing acid in each bite. Perhaps my favorite thing about Sotto is its wildly affordable wine list. In an era where the most casual restaurants often have very little below $60 by the bottle, a big portion of Sotto's list sits a good $15 to $20 cheaper than that, for wines that will delight you and also teach you things — things you wish you'd understood for years — about lesser-known Italian regions and producers. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

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