There's so very much amazing sushi to be had in Los Angeles, and I'd be lying if I told you that Soregashi was among the most thrilling Japanese restaurants in town. Yet the food here is carefully and seriously prepared, and far more affordable than omakase available at the temples of sushi we all tend to lionize. Access to the unassuming but serious middle is one of the great joys of living in Los Angeles. Soregashi is a particularly fine example of that wonderful, immutable truth.
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At Soregashi, the two owners have a straightforward aim to present Japanese food as authentically as possible. "Lots of places here serve California-style sushi and Japanese food," manager Tsuyoshi Kawada says. "We are trying to mak...