7274 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90046
Critics' Pick
smoke.oil.salt +

Photo: Anne Fishbein


  • Daily, 5:30 p.m.-midnight
  • Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
  • Street Parking, Valet Parking
Smoke.oil.salt chef (and Valencia native) Perfecto Rocher is valiantly trying to bring the experience of Spain, specifically Catalonia, to the brick space (under a tattoo parlor) in West Hollywood. Despite our city's love of tapas, or at least their size and adaptability, there's little in the way of quality Spanish food in Los Angeles, and many of Rocher's dishes come as pure delight. His version of calçots — spring onions, served smoked over salbitxada, the thick sauce made with ground almonds and hazelnuts — is enough to throw you into a reverie for Catalan nights, even if you've never set foot in Europe. You've had gazpacho, but have you ever had cherry gazpacho, as deep and purple-red as the lips of a wicked vixen, topped with lobster meat, caviar and a fried oyster? It's just as sweet and tart, just as unexpected, and just as delightful as it sounds. You've had grilled yellowtail collar, perhaps as part of a boozy Japanese meal, but have you had it under a Valencian picadeta sauce, spiked with anchovies and fresh herbs? You ought to. — Besha Rodell Read our review of Smoke Oil Salt.

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