Siam Sunset

5265 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90027-5716
323-467-8935
Siam Sunset +

Photo: Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Takeout
The strength of Siam Sunset in Thai Town may lie in its ordinariness, the way that its meals are structured to glide into routine rather than to dazzle with the virtuosity of its kitchen. There is a raw, totally unevolved version of yen ta fo, thick noodles with fried tofu and various tentacles floating in Barbie-box-pink broth, but the rank-smelling liquid turns out to be about 100-percent umami, and the scent fits precisely into the fabric of an Asian morning. A lot of people come in for the Thai take on Hainan chicken rice, strips of breast or thigh poached just until the slackness of the flesh starts to tighten and the juice turns clear, served on a mound of rice moistened with chicken fat. If you are accustomed to the Singapore version of the dish, in which the grains of rice are separate, firm, barely glistening with oil, Siam Sunset's mushy, garlicky rice may not be what gets you up in the morning (and the gingery, bean-sweetened, sauce may even freak you out), but it is good enough, a basic, homely Hainan rice. The braised pork leg over rice is rich, fine.

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