Deep-fried catfish are almost as inescapable around here as personal trainers or Chevy Suburbans, but Shiro, a Japanese-French bistro unaccountably tucked into a Midwestern-looking South Pasadena streetscape, serves so much of this ponzu-steeped stuff that it might as well rename itself after the fish. Its version of the dish - imagine a whole catfish the size of the shark from Jaws, stuffed with ginger and fried to a crisp - is everything you could want from a bottom-feeder.
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Corn chowder The Ivy is a New Yorker's perfect dream of Los Angeles, splashed with sunlight, decorated with amusing American kitsch, populated with lunching actresses, agents and New York magazine editors in town to take the pulse o...