Rocio's Mexican Kitchen

7891 Garfield Ave.
Bell Gardens, California 90201
562-659-7800
Best Of
Rocio's Mexican Kitchen +

Anne Fishbein Chef Rocio Camacho

Details

  • Daily, 9 a.m.-9 p.m.
Rocio’s Mexican Kitchen is a modest affair. The small wedge of a restaurant from renowned mole queen Rocio Camacho operates mainly as a takeout place where you order at a counter, and it’s possible to pick up a burrito and never get wind of the more exciting possibilities of eating here. But there’s way more to this place than meets the eye. It wouldn’t be a Camacho restaurant without a focus on moles, and the Oaxaqueño, in particular, is fantastically silky and has a depth of flavor that’s downright profound — this is mole that might be cast in the starring role of some magical-realism novel, the dark sorcery used to seduce a young lover. Camacho’s touch with more standard menu items makes them utterly memorable. The empanadas are so light and crispy they’re almost ethereal in their shattery crunch. The aguachile has fat shrimp bathed in a scarlet sauce spicy enough to alter your consciousness but also so tangy and balanced that it will have you coming back for bite after excruciating bite. If this food were served in some fancy room somewhere, the salmon would be cooked a little more gently; the ribs under a sticky, spicy, aromatic glaze would perhaps be more tender. There would be wine as delicate as the flavor of the musky huitlacoche sauce you get ladled over mahi mahi. But the wonderful thing about Rocio’s Mexican Kitchen is right there in the name. This is Camacho’s kitchen, and it’s not built on any premise other than showcasing the cooking of an incredibly talented chef. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

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