Revolutionario

1436 W. Jefferson Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90007
424-223-3526
Critics' Pick
Best Of

Details

  • Wed.-Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • No Alcohol
  • Kid Friendly
Revolutionario is further proof that you can put anything in a taco — in this case smoked lamb, chickpea tagine or the Middle Eastern egg dish shakshouka — and it will taste even better. The tiny, low-on-frills-but-high-on-charm Northern Africa taco joint (from classically trained French-Algerian chef Farid Zadi) also deserves bonus points for its location: Situated just west of USC, Revolutionario is a harissa-slicked oasis in something of a restaurant desert. You can’t go wrong with any of the 10 taco options (though I’d suggest you start with the beef brisket barbacoa, or the chickpea-spinach–sweet potato tagine if you’re vegetarian). In case North African tacos don’t provide enough culture collision, Revolutionario serves three varieties of Japanese-Peruvian ceviche as well. And whatever you do, don’t walk out of there without ordering the fried cauliflower, which can stand up to any of the fried cauli that has proliferated on menus across the city. Here it’s dressed with spiced salt, smoked pepper, Aleppo pepper, sumac, toasted wheat, sesame seeds and dried lime. At $3.75 apiece, go ahead and order three. —Mara Shalhoup

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