Papilles

6221 Franklin Ave.
Hollywood Hills, CA 90028
323-871-2026
Papilles +

Anne Fishbein Ling cod

Details

  • Tue.-Fri., 6-9:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 5:30-9:30 p.m.
Step through the door of the woefully undersung Papilles Bistro, in the corner of a strip mall tucked into the armpit of Franklin Avenue and the 101 freeway, and you find yourself in a homey space that’s reminiscent of a neighborhood restaurant in New York or Paris, the type of place untouched by time or trends. Chef Tim Carey serves an affordable daily prix fixe menu that nods to France’s bistronomy movement, combining serious gastronomy with the more casual feel of a bistro. For dinner, you might start with a velouté, perhaps butternut squash or cauliflower. It’s here that you’ll begin to taste Carey’s training, in particular his time spent at Patina. In the impossibly silky cauliflower velouté, garnishes of pepitas, pomegranate and tiny pickled cauliflower florets all burst in different ways, the pickled cauliflower in particular releasing just enough fruity, puckery vinegar to make your palate tingle. Proteins, such as fish or flat-iron steak, are cooked so perfectly that it’s like eating in another era, one in which technique was king and creativity came a distant second. Papilles really is that mythical beast: the underrated and mainly undiscovered restaurant. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

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