Paiche - Closed

13488 Maxella Ave.
Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
310-893-6100
Paiche +

Photo: Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Daily 11:30am-11:30pm
  • $$
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Parking Lot Available, Street Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
Ricardo Zarate's new Marina del Rey restaurant is most successful as a swanky SoCal restaurant — one that, at its best, offers a next-generation vision of what "coastal" means. As much as the idea here is very much a cultural mash-up, my favorite dishes were pretty solidly Peruvian: the namesake fish sliced thin in an aji amarillo lemon vinaigrette, topped with a grounding sweet potato mousse; a tender leg of duck confit over pallares tacu tacu, a Peruvian lima bean mash, with a sauce made from the bright flavors used in ceviche. Here, as with all his restaurants, Zarate is best when he takes his native cuisine and plays with it. Arroz con conchas negras, a rice dish made black with "black shells," adds uni and blood clams to the mix for a deeply flavored dish, both comforting and beguiling, the dark heart of seafood. —Besha Rodell

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