Night + Market Song

3322 W. Sunset Blvd.
Silver Lake, CA 90026
323-665-5899
Night + Market Song +

Anne Fishbein Nam prik gapi

Details

  • Mon.-Fri., noon-3 p.m.; Mon.-Thu., 5-10:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
  • Metered Parking, Street Parking
  • Reservations Not Accepted
Thai food in Los Angeles is evolving in ways other cities could only dream about, and the most exciting evolution is the rise of Kris Yenbamroong and his Night + Market projects. What started as an experiment of sorts, a food and art space attached to the Yenbamroong family’s long-standing Talesai in West Hollywood, has morphed into two full-fledged powerhouse restaurants. Night + Market Song, which opened in 2014, brought Yenbamroong’s funky, deeply personal northern Thai cooking to Silver Lake, where the neighborhood rejoiced in the colorful room with its plastic beads and topless Cindy Crawford poster and its list of affordable, mainly natural wines. Here, along with the spicy larb and khao soi and pad kee mao he was known for, Yenbamroong debuted a fantastic fried chicken sandwich topped with papaya and jalapeño, as well as “Bangkok mall pasta” — spicy spaghetti, showcasing the direction he’s going in as a cook — Thai-based but increasingly borderless. You’ll hear this food is blisteringly spicy; you’ll hear all about the (currently unavailable) blood and MSG soup and the (always delicious) smashed water bugs. Don’t be fooled into believing this is gimmickry — what makes the food here so exceptional is the extreme care taken, the roasting of chilies, the layering of flavors. In the past year, Night + Market quietly took over the Talesai space from which it sprouted, signaling the end of an era and also the cementing of a new age, one that’s thrilling in its delicious unpredictability. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

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