Nha Trang's entire menu fits on a business card: Just six items and two more alternating "specials" on a chalkboard. Indeed, there are more drink options. At many places, this would be a negative, but at the second -- and larger -- Nha Trang in Monterey Park, the narrow approach focuses on their strengths. Here this means Central Vietnamese-style soups such as bun bo hue (spicy beef noodle) and the tomato-based, crab and meatball bun rieu.
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The best food in Vietnam is found not in Michelin-approved establishments but on dirty street corners, where stray dogs linger at your feet carefully gnawing at scraps. Each tiny street stall will most likely specialize in one singl...