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n/naka

3455 S. Overland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90034
310-836-6252
Critics' Pick
Best Of
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Photo: Anne Fishbein Fanny Bay oyster, caviar, brown butter at n/naka.

At n/naka in Palms, chef Niki Nakayama presents a modern interpretation of kaiseki, the Japanese formal, multicourse style of dining that emphasizes seasonality. And so a meal unfolds, in quiet stanzas: A blue shrimp, split open and grilled to its buoyant, juicy ideal and coated with yuzu cream; a modern interpretation of a sashimi course involving otoro, scallions and a tiny sliver of mildly sweet butter flavored with uni; a plate of lovingly arranged sashimi offerings, including tai (sea bream), kanpachi and one perfect Kumamoto oyster with ponzu and lemon. —Besha Rodell

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  • Four Stars and 13 Courses at n/naka
    1 year ago by Besha Rodell

    The subject of this week's restaurant review is n/naka, the Palms restaurant dedicated to kaiseki, the formal Japanese multi-course meal. You can read the full review over in the main food section, or see a condensed version (with a...

  • n/naka Review: Japanese Formalism Flawlessly Executed in Palms
    1 year ago by Besha Rodell

    "A pairing of something common with something unique": This is the way your meal will begin at n/naka. Perhaps it will be a gossamer tomato and dashi gelee supporting delicate lobster, which has been wrapped in thinly sliced avocado...

  • The Chef's Library: 4 Cookbook Picks From n/naka's Niki Nakayama
    2 years ago by Besha Rodell

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