If there's any proof that we've come a long way from Chef Boyardee, it's the squid ink ravioli at Michael's on Naples in Long Beach-square pasta purses blacker than crude oil and as jarring a sight on a white plate as a Goth at Disneyland on a sunny day. Even better is the octopus carpaccio, which is sliced so thinly, it's almost invisible. Chef Boyardee, if you're reading, eat your heart out.
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When its start date rolls around in July, maybe the California foie gras ban will actually be welcome. Right now, restaurants seem to be saturating their menus with the controversial fatty duck liver. It's even stuffed into our jell...