Michael's

1147 Third St.
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310-451-0843
Critics' Pick
Michael's +

Anne Fishbein Chicken hearts with young eggplant, romano beans and ubriaco rosso

Details

  • Mon-Fri 12pm-2:30pm, Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
  • $$$
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Business Dining, Catering, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Private Party, Takeout
  • Street Parking, Valet Parking
  • Reservations Recommended, Reservations Accepted
Recently reinvented Michael's new feel and taste rests mainly on the hiring of Miles Thompson, the young chef who used to run Allumette in Echo Park and then left town for a couple of years. Thompson's cooking was always assertively modern, but in the time he's been gone from L.A. it's also become more refined, more clever and more umami-driven. This is food that's cool to look at (in some cases for reasons that are almost subversive), but it isn't so cerebral that it becomes a killjoy. Pure pleasure appears to be the base ingredient in all of Thompson's cooking. Crab and uni chawanmushi is built upon a base of savory egg custard, topped with large hunks of Dungeness crab and the decadent funk of uni, punctuated by delicately floral ginger sprout. Burrata comes lolling in its bowl with orange orbs of trout roe across the top; underneath is a sweet tart chow chow, which sits in lovely contrast to the milky cheese. Thompson's arrival at Michael's offers hope that, rather than shut down our venerated institutions, we might honor them by moving steadily forward, keeping the components that are worthy of preservation (in this case, the iconic, irreplaceable glamour of the restaurant's leafy patio) and installing youth and vitality where it's needed.

Related Stories (11)

Load More Articles

Menu

View All

More California Restaurants in Santa Monica

View All

More California Restaurants in Los Angeles

  • It's pronounced “pah-chay” and means peace; certainly this quiet Laurel Canyon nestler is peacefu...

    California
  • Native Foods prepares vegetarian food the way it should be, and tofu is not the be-all-to-end-all...

    American
  • Perhaps one of the loveliest places to dine in greater Los Angeles, Inn of the Seventh Ray is a n...

    American
  • In a neighborhood where artists once rented studios for pittances, a sleek commercial district of...

    California
  • Jar
    Critics' Pick

    Jar is an aptly named place. Both clean-line decorative and Rat Pack retro, Suzanne Tracht's Beve...

    American
  • Lucques
    Critics' Pick

    From the comforting fireplace that greets you upon arrival, to the back patio with its vine-cover...

    California

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >