Madeo

8897 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
310-859-4903

Details

  • Sun 5:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Fri 12pm-11pm, Sat 6pm-11pm
  • $$$$
  • Takeout
  • Dinner, Lunch
  • Full bar
  • Valet Parking
  • Reservations Accepted, Reservations Not Necessary
Gnocchi (pronounced NYO-kee) are easy to make. Good gnocchi are notoriously difficult. A sous chef we know was once in charge of the gnocchi at a well-known restaurant, and his afternoons were either made or destroyed by the owner’s reaction to the spoonful he offered her every day at precisely 4:30. His gnocchi made it onto the menu only about two days out of five. Madeo, the understated agents’ hangout a few blocks from Cedars-Sinai, resembles a businessmen’s restaurant in one of the lesser quarters of Rome, from its shiny, vaguely disco-era decor to its bunker-like location a few steps below the street. The blistery pizza is fine, and the smoky, fire-roasted veal is renowned. And you can’t miss with the gnocchi — luscious, featherweight clouds of pure potato flavor, dressed with pesto, tomato sauce with basil, or a slightly gooey tincture of Gorgonzola — which may be among the best in Los Angeles.

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