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Lucky Duck

2630 Hyperion Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Lucky Duck +

Photo: Anne Fishbein Cook Pigs Ranch pork chop with Brussels sprouts and apple slaw at Lucky Duck.

Details

  • Mon-Thur. 6-10 p.m., Fri-Sat 6-10:30 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Local Ingredients, Beer and Wine
  • Dinner
  • Parking Lot Available, Street Parking
It's possible to have a meal at Silver Lake's Lucky Duck that's surprisingly good, better maybe than you'd expect. Early on, I was bowled over by a big, juicy pork chop, served with a bitter radicchio salad, exactly the kind of astute, straightforward, seasonal cooking you want in a neighborhood restaurant. Sea bream crudo was spiked with salty fried capers, and the fennel on the plate gave the raw fish a lovely hint of vegetal perfume. Stevens makes as an appetizer an omelet with fresh herbs and Parmesan, which is almost stunning in its simplicity and perfection. A hearty house-made fettuccine, made with farro, bathed in pesto and peppered with flageolet beans, made for a delicious, comforting, late-winter meal a few weeks back. And a "couscous" made with cauliflower, spiked with curry oil, apple, medjool dates and pistachios, is the kind of inventive vegetable dish that turns out to be greater than the sum of its parts. — Besha Rodell

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