Love & Salt

317 Manhattan Beach Blvd.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310-545-5252
Critics' Pick
Love & Salt +

Anne Fishbein Rabbit porchetta at Love & Salt

Details

  • Mon.-Thu., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Fri., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
  • Local Ingredients
  • Dinner, Brunch
  • Beer/Wine, Full bar
In the two years since Love & Salt opened in the old Cafe Pierre space in Manhattan Beach, chef Michael Fiorelli’s modern Italian restaurant has become a beacon for the neighborhood, serving truly exciting food in a beautiful room that feels fun in a way that’s utterly appropriate to its upscale beachy location. It’s true that you can order a whole pig’s head here (with 48 hours’ advance notice), which comes with condiments and toast, but to me, the value lies in the menu’s slightly less confronting pleasures. Rigatoni — served in Parmesan brodo with wilted escarole, whipped ricotta and chicken meatballs — presents a perfect combination of comfort and intrigue, the bitter edge of the escarole soothed by the generous, creamy ricotta. The rabbit porchetta is disturbingly delicious, the buoyant rabbit meat rolled up with prosciutto and Swiss chard, splayed out over a stewy combination of black rice, farro, pine nuts and currants. Fiorelli used to serve many of his best dishes only as large-format sharable plates, but now most things come in more manageable serving sizes, making it easier to explore more of the menu. Extra kudos to the staff, who provide the kind of friendly, breezy capable service that’s weirdly (and infuriatingly) rare this close to the ocean. —Besha Rodell
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