Ledlow

400 S. Main St.
Los Angeles, CA 90013
213-687-7015
Critics' Pick
The reality of Ledlow, at least two name changes and four months in, is not so straightforward. Yes, an underlying guiding principle of Americana is detectable, and some dishes on the menu are unequivocally classic: There are Parker House rolls that arrive in a cast iron skillet, golden on the outside and gorgeously fluffy on the inside, served with a side of pimento cheese made from an old-school recipe that produces a smooth cheese spread rather than the more of-the-moment chunky version. Nightly specials include serious throwbacks, such as beef stroganoff and turkey pot pie, made with care and hitting on all the comfort receptors you'd expect. Where Centeno really hits his stride is with dishes that nod to the past but have just enough of this chef's playful sensibility and penchant for bold flavoring that they feel both classic and modern. --Besha Rodell Read our full review of Ledlow.

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