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Le Comptoir

3606 W. Sixth St.
Koreatown, CA 90020
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Le Comptoir +

Anne Fishbein A vegetable composition

Details

  • Tue.-Sat., seatings at 6 & 8:30 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Prix Fixe
  • Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
In the world of ever-more-stripped-down, ever-less-luxurious “fine” dining, no operation is more spare than Le Comptoir. Gary Menes’ vegetable-centric tasting menu operation for years roamed L.A. as a pop-up but for two-plus years has been fixed in a small storefront attached to the Hotel Normandie in Koreatown. The restaurant is nothing more than a counter facing a kitchen. Menes’ Long Beach farm and its harvest provide the basis for the eight-course meal he serves, courses that pair a lush purple artichoke velouté with buttery fried bread crumbs and creamy sheep’s yogurt, or lima beans with sweet and sour pear in a pool of red wine reduction. Though veggies are Menes’ main infatuation, optional meat supplements are available for many of the courses. And other obsessions reveal themselves, too: the stretchy, chewy, crusty bread made from a 20-year-old sourdough starter; the single-origin coffee; the optional cheese course with rare cheeses. For all of these items, Menes will give you the rundown during the monologue he delivers ahead of the meal, gushing about the 90-year-old who produced your creamy Roquefort or describing the exact roasting process of his coffee beans. For the right diner, this level of personal ardor will feel superior in every way to the more comfortable but purely transactional experiences available everywhere else. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

Related Stories (1)

  • Le Comptoir Takes Bare-Bones Dining to the Extreme
    Tuesday, March 24, 2015 at 6:30 a.m. by Besha Rodell

    The purest expression of chef Gary Menes' vision comes early in a meal at Le Comptoir, the new, permanent iteration of what had been his transient pop-up restaurant. Following a small amuse, perhaps a blistered shishito pepper over ...

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