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Le Comptoir

3606 W. Sixth St.
Koreatown, CA 90020
Best Of
Le Comptoir +

Anne Fishbein A vegetable composition

Details

  • Tue.-Sat., seatings at 6 & 8:30 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly
  • Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
In the world of ever-more-stripped-down, ever-less-luxurious “fine” dining, no operation is more spare than Le Comptoir. Gary Menes’ vegetable-centric tasting-menu operation for years roamed L.A. as a pop-up but now is fixed in a small storefront attached to the Hotel Normandie. The restaurant is nothing more than a counter facing a kitchen. Menes’ farm and its harvest provide the basis for the six-course meal he serves, courses that pair decidedly unsweet butternut squash with the sugary pop of preserved blueberries, or stone-ground polenta with sweet onion, onion jus, apple, almonds and romanesco. Though veggies are Menes’ main infatuation, other obsessions reveal themselves: the stretchy, chewy, crusty bread made from a 20-year-old starter, the single-origin coffee, the optional cheese course with rare cheeses. For any and all of these items, Menes will give you the rundown as he serves you, gushing about the 90-year-old who produced your creamy Roquefort or describing the exact roasting process of his coffee beans. For the right diner, this level of personal ardor will feel superior in every way to the more comfortable but purely transactional experiences available everywhere else. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

Related Stories (1)

  • Le Comptoir Takes Bare-Bones Dining to the Extreme
    Tuesday, March 24, 2015 at 6:30 a.m. by Besha Rodell

    The purest expression of chef Gary Menes' vision comes early in a meal at Le Comptoir, the new, permanent iteration of what had been his transient pop-up restaurant. Following a small amuse, perhaps a blistered shishito pepper over ...

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