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Kokekokko

360 E. 2nd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012-4203
213-687-0690
Critics' Pick

Details

  • Private Party
Kokekokko is all about grilled chicken: loosely packed chicken meatballs, faintly scented with herbs; grilled skin, threaded onto the skewer in accordion pleats; marinated slivers of thigh, separated from each other by slices of onion. Grilled hearts, served with a smear of hot Chinese mustard, are a little tough, but intensely chicken-flavored. Wisps of breast stretched around okra and Japanese chile provide just a smidgen of residual sliminess that works to intensify the texture of the meat.

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