Khun Dang Restaurant

13436 Sherman Way
Los Angeles, CA 91605
818-503-4993
Khun Dom has always been one of the places that local Thais tend to recommend when you pump them for recommendations, and the hand-cut papaya salad often comes up when you start discussing the best in the city. The chicken satay is sweet as candy, but the spicy chicken larb is clearly handmade. It is clear that the strength of the kitchen lies in the Isaan-style salads from eastern Thailand, a type of cooking that is extremely popular in Bangkok. A proper Isaan-style salad ought include toasted rice and fiery chiles, salted crabs and odd organs, and is properly eaten with your fingers, scooped up with a ball of sticky rice. Khun Dom fails on some fronts, however. The pad Thai noodles are limp and way over-sweetened, and stay away from trite Chinese offerings, such as the won tons. They do have a really fine glass-noodle salad with pork and chiles, and a squid salad that tastes of the sea. The star dish at the restaurant is probably the nam kaow tod, a sort of salad made with crumbles of pork, slippery bits of stewed pork skin, fried peanuts and a crunchy matrix of deep-fried rice, sluiced with yet more lime juice. It is a dish as hard to stop eating as buttered popcorn. See full review.

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