Kato

11925 Santa Monica Blvd.
Sawtelle, California 90025
424-535-3041
Critics' Pick
Kato

Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Mon.-Thu., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
I can't think of a more unexpectedly great meal this year than what I recently experienced at Kato, a minuscule restaurant in West L.A. that serves only tasting menus. What makes Kato — named after the Green Hornet's masked sidekick, once played by a young Bruce Lee — so improbable? Put it this way: If this restaurant were a superhero, its power would be invisibility. Shoehorned between two Mexican restaurants in a two-story West L.A. mini mall, Kato's blank storefront is no more than 10 feet wide. A scrawl of pale pink cursive on the glass front door is the sole signifier you've arrived. Perhaps the most surprising thing about Kato is that it pulls off something very few restaurants are able to make viable — the chef's choice tasting menu. Part of Kato's appeal has to do with what economists refer to as a "low barrier to entry." A five-course dinner here will cost you $49 before tax and tip (actually, it's more like eight courses, once you include two snacks and a dessert). Read our full review.

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