Jerry's Soda Shoppe at De Soto Pharmacy

20914 Roscoe Blvd.
Canoga Park, CA 91304
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Most "old-timey" ice cream parlors seem like self-conscious simulacra of some Norman Rockwell fantasy, but Jerry's Soda Shoppe at the De Soto Pharmacy feels unspoiled by kitsch. This Canoga Park shop is tucked between a wall of vintage Life magazines and rows of blunt yet evocative ointments like Corn Husker's Lotion. Everything here — the sundaes, the shakes, the banana splits, the ice cream sodas — looks gorgeous and tastes even better. Frosty glass mugs are hand dipped in warm chocolate, which hardens into a delicious, edible carapace. Jerry's uses high grade ice cream: Fosselman's, Cascade or Lappert's (including the signature flavor, Kauai Pie, a blend of chocolate and coffee). Fizzy soda water, the perfect amount of chocolate syrup and a hearty stir transform the egg cream into a frothy dream. The floats and sodas can be gussied up with half a dozen Torani syrups, though the purist's version with plain seltzer needs no improvement, especially when it's crowned with a mountain of whipped cream, chocolate sprinkles and a maraschino cherry.

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