Ita-Cho inspires long lines on the weekends for its village-style Japanese cuisine. The food comes out on a series of little plates that can be shared by everyone; and, hey, if someone bogarts the sauteed miso-soaked eggplant, or marinated black cod, just order more. The kitchen and service staff are so swift, you’ll hardly notice the wait, and the prices aren’t punishing.
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TWO THOUSAND was a quiet year on the dining front, a year of few fireworks. Some great old standbys launched triumphant new spinoffs: Café Talesai in Beverly Hills, Restaurant Katsu in Studio City, Saladang Song right next do...