Isaan Station

125 N. Western Ave., Unit 111-112
Los Angeles, CA 90004
323-380-5126
Critics' Pick
Isaan Station

Courtesy Isaan Station/Yelp Green papaya salad

Details

  • Tue.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-11:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.
  • $
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • No Alcohol
  • Takeout
  • Street Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
Angelenos are discerning when it comes to Thai food. We can tell when pad Thai has been dyed with ketchup. We know that sticky rice goes with crying tiger, the signature grilled beef dish. We acknowledge that Thai salads are bonkers spicy. But a dinner at Isaan Station — located in Koreatown, which has an international array of restaurants but no real Thai presence — will make any diner realize there is still so much to learn. The strip-mall spot specializes in Northeastern Thai dishes, which means a lot of grilled food, a lot of fermentation and a lot of meat. Try the sausages or the beef and pork jerky, which are extremely funky in flavor. They’ve been air-dried and then thrown in the fryer, a method that makes for an animal-forward, bold flavor. The kai yang, chicken that’s been marinated in a turmeric-heavy spice mix and then grilled over charcoal, is a revelation. Most of us simply didn’t know that grilled chicken could be so complex and delicious. You won’t eat just one piece. And as it happens, Isaan Station might also have the best papaya salad in L.A. —Katherine Spiers

Related Stories (3)

  • Beyond Pok Pok, Some of America's Best, and Cheapest, Thai Isaan Cuisine
    Thursday, September 11, 2014 at 9:34 a.m. by James Gordon

    On Tuesday, Sept. 9, 2014, the City of Los Angeles received the momentous news that Portland-based chef Andy Ricker will be opening two of his wonderful restaurants, Pok Pok and Pok Pok Phat Thai, at the Far East Plaza in L.A.'s Chi...

  • Six California Restaurants Get Thai Select Awards
    Tuesday, November 5, 2013 at 7:54 a.m. by Barbara Hansen

    The Thai government is poking into what you eat -- not to report you for ordering too much pad Thai and not enough khao kluk kapi but to suggest places where you'll get a decent version of each. In the Thai Select program, authorize...

  • Isaan Station: Thai Food to Cry Over
    Thursday, June 27, 2013 at 8 a.m. by Andrew Simmons

    You didn't come for the music videos, but they're staring you in the eye from across the small room: a heavily made-up waif darting teary-eyed between two equally made-up fellows making mournful faces and beckoning emphatically. You...

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