ink.

8360 Melrose Ave.
Beverly Grove, CA 90069
323-651-5866
ink. +

Anne Fishbein Porcini mushrooms at ink.

Details

  • Sun.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6-11 p.m.
  • Local Ingredients
  • Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Valet Parking
  • Reservations Accepted, Online Reservations Available
Michael Voltaggio has a lot going on these days. He has the starring role in a Carl’s Jr. commercial, bucking the trend of that chain’s advertising strategy by appearing with all his clothes on. He’s the co-host of the Travel Channel show Breaking Borders. And he’s reportedly working on a new project in the heart of Hollywood. But ink., his 4-year-old restaurant in Beverly Grove, remains the purest expression of his creative energies, the place to go if you want to taste all the promise that got Voltaggio to this level of fame in the first place. It’s a fun place to eat for the hyper-stylish vibe and customers to match, for the cocktails that manage to turn the main ingredients on their heads (a fruity refresher made from Fernet, for instance) and for food that is one part ego, one part punnery (think potatoes that look like lumps of charcoal and taste the part), two parts style and two parts wild creativity. Dishes you might be used to seeing on other menus here are turned on their head: A Little Gem salad becomes a clever play on a Caesar (and sometimes also a play on the phrase “hidden gem”), and beef tartare comes looking like some sort of winter tundra thanks to scattered plating and frozen powdered horseradish. When Voltaggio is in the kitchen rather than out trotting the globe, his presence in the moodily lit window is like a brooding young monarch, back from the wars, overlooking his kingdom. —Besha Rodell

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