Hunan Mao offers clean stir-fries of lamb, beef, crumbled meat or pungent house-smoked bacon, as well as gooey strips of stewed pigskin with fermented black beans and chopped red and green peppers. If you don't order carefully, it is possible to end up with three or four versions of the same dish. Flash-fried Taiwan lettuce bears the breath of the wok. Elegant cold chicken comes with a complex herbal dipping sauce. Pork ribs, steamed under a coat of rice crumbs, taste eloquently of themselves. The chewy deep-fried lamb ribs, jolted with numbing Sichuan peppercorns and tossed with a mixture of fried peppers and garlic, are hard to stop eating, so you should probably have a bottle of Maalox in your glove compartment just in case.