Hirozen Gourmet

8385 Beverly Blvd.
Beverly Grove, CA 90048
323-653-0470
Hirozen Gourmet

Besha Rodell

Details

  • Mon.-Sat., 6-10 p.m.; lunch Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
  • $$
  • Beer/Wine
  • Catering, Takeout
  • Valet Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
Hirozen is rarely listed as one of L.A.’s top sushi restaurants, a fact that might be explained by its slightly confusing nature. Tucked into the corner of a strip mall on Beverly Boulevard, the 26-year-old restaurant at first appears to be a fairly basic neighborhood spot. When people approach it this way, they’re often confused by the pricing (high for a neighborhood joint) or by the long list of sushi and sashimi specials and options that venture into fish-you’ve-never-heard-of-flown-in-from-Japan territory. The menu, the quality of the fish and knife work are more in line with the serious sushi bars in town, but Hirozen doesn’t quite look or feel the part. None of this negates the fact that some of the most astonishing sushi meals I’ve had in the past couple of years have been at Hirozen, where an omakase of gorgeous, expertly seasoned and gloriously seasoned nigiri — perhaps black throat perch, or barracuda — will go on and on until you tell them to stop. It is very hard to tell them to stop. —Besha Rodell

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