Here’s Looking at You

3901 W. Sixth St.
Koreatown, California 90020
213-568-3573
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Here’s Looking at You +

Anne Fishbein Nectarine

Details

  • Mon.-Sat., 6-11 p.m.; Sun., 6-10 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Local Ingredients
  • Dinner
  • Full bar

Here's Looking at You, like an increasing number of compelling places to eat in Koreatown, is not a Korean restaurant. It's the brainchild of two Animal veterans: Jonathan Whitener, the former chef de cuisine, and Lien Ta, a former manager. If you're familiar with the food served at Animal, it's easy to see the Dotolo-Shook fingerprints on Whitener's cerebral, postcultural cooking: an easy fluency in mashing together international flavors, a flair for turning lowbrow into highbrow, a penchant for balancing richness with judicious splashes of acid. But Whitener's style is distinct, too; his food has a lighter, more subdued touch, with less of that smash-mouth decadence that defines many of Animal's greatest hits. His ground brisket tartare, crowned with egg yolk, toasted chili powder, shaved turnips and sprigs of watercress, is so ethereal that it turns a dish associated with luxuriousness into something that feels downright healthful. Whitener shows a keen understanding of textures, especially when it comes to his gorgeously complex salads. The dish combining Momotaro tomato, bagna cauda, lap xuong and crème fraiche is a popular choice. Though not without its idiosyncrasies, Here's Looking at You is overflowing with as much raw creative potential as any restaurant in the city. —Garrett Snyder
Read our full review.

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