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Go's Mart

22330 Sherman Way
Los Angeles, CA 91303
818-704-1459
Critics' Pick
Go's Mart

Photo: Amy Scattergood

The particularly Los Angeles tenet that some of the best food is found in crappy strip malls is nowhere more true than at Go's Mart, the remarkable sushi restaurant inside a Canoga Park oasis of concrete, between a tiny dance studio and a massage parlor. Walk inside, and you'll still think you're in a nail salon (orange walls, linoleum floor) until you see the sushi bar at the back of the place, where Go has worked his magic for the last 18 years. Mrs. Go — who spends her very early mornings at International Marine downtown, sourcing the pristine fish — will bring you tea and, eventually, your hefty bill, but it is her husband who will present you with the plates of kelp halibut and aji, kimmedai and toro. Many, perhaps too many, of the gorgeous pieces of fish come graced with truffle or gold leaf, increasing the sense of incommensurateness you feel eating fantastic sushi in the decidedly grungy setting. Just turn up your irony meter: The food is worth it. — Amy Scattergood

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